/* BaltDir directory stylesheet. Tokens come from the cluster accent in --c. */
:root{
  --ink:#1c1917; --muted:#6b6560; --faint:#8a847d;
  --paper:#f7f5f2; --card:#fffdfb; --line:#e6e2dc; --line-soft:#efece7;
  --serif:ui-serif,Georgia,"Times New Roman",serif;
  --sans:ui-sans-serif,system-ui,-apple-system,"Segoe UI",Roboto,"Helvetica Neue",sans-serif;
}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
html{-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.6 var(--sans)}
.w{max-width:1060px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
a{color:var(--c);text-decoration:none}
a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
:focus-visible{outline:2px solid var(--c);outline-offset:2px;border-radius:4px}
.skip{position:absolute;left:-9999px;top:0;background:var(--c);color:#fff;padding:10px 16px;z-index:9}
.skip:focus{left:8px;top:8px}

/* header */
header{background:var(--card);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
.hdr{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:22px;padding:14px 20px}
.logo{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;color:var(--ink);font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.22rem;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:-.01em;white-space:nowrap}
.logo:hover{text-decoration:none}
.mark{width:14px;height:14px;border-radius:4px;background:var(--c);flex:none}
nav.cats{display:flex;gap:4px;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;margin-left:auto}
nav.cats::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
nav.cats a{color:var(--muted);font-size:.92rem;font-weight:500;padding:7px 11px;border-radius:999px;white-space:nowrap}
nav.cats a:hover{color:var(--ink);background:var(--line-soft);text-decoration:none}
nav.cats a.on{color:var(--c);background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c) 9%,transparent)}

/* type */
h1{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:2.15rem;line-height:1.18;letter-spacing:-.015em;margin:0 0 10px;font-weight:700}
h2{font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.3rem;margin:34px 0 12px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:-.01em}
.lead{color:var(--muted);font-size:1.06rem;line-height:1.65;max-width:64ch;margin:0}
.bc{font-size:.85rem;color:var(--faint);margin:22px 0 0;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;align-items:center}
.bc a{color:var(--faint)}
.bc a:hover{color:var(--c)}
.bc i{font-style:normal;color:var(--line)}

/* hero + stats */
.hero{padding:38px 0 6px}
.stats{list-style:none;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(110px,max-content));gap:0;margin:26px 0 0;padding:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.stats li{padding:14px 28px 4px 0;margin-right:28px;border-right:1px solid var(--line)}
.stats li:last-child{border-right:0}
@media (max-width:640px){.stats{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.stats li{border-right:0;margin-right:0}.stats li:nth-child(odd){border-right:1px solid var(--line)}}
.stats b{display:block;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:1.7rem;line-height:1.1;font-weight:700}
.stats span{font-size:.78rem;letter-spacing:.06em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--faint)}

/* tiles (categories) */
.tiles{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(230px,1fr));gap:10px}
.tiles a{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:baseline;gap:10px;background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:10px;padding:13px 16px;color:var(--ink);font-weight:600;font-size:.98rem}
.tiles a:hover{border-color:var(--c);text-decoration:none;box-shadow:0 1px 3px rgb(28 25 23 / .07)}
.tiles .tc{color:var(--faint);font-weight:500;font-size:.88rem;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}

/* chips (cities, related) */
.chips{list-style:none;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:0;padding:0}
.chips a{display:inline-flex;align-items:baseline;gap:6px;border:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);border-radius:999px;padding:7px 14px;color:var(--ink);font-size:.92rem;font-weight:500}
.chips a:hover{border-color:var(--c);color:var(--c);text-decoration:none}
.chips span{color:var(--faint);font-size:.82rem}

/* listing rows */
.rows{list-style:none;margin:18px 0 0;padding:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.row{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-soft);padding:15px 4px}
.row:hover{background:var(--card)}
.rname{font-weight:650;font-size:1.04rem;color:var(--ink)}
.rname:hover{color:var(--c)}
.rate{display:inline-block;margin-left:8px;padding:2px 9px;border-radius:999px;background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c) 10%,transparent);color:var(--c);font-size:.82rem;font-weight:600;vertical-align:2px}
.rad{margin:3px 0 0;color:var(--muted);font-size:.93rem}
.rmeta{margin:5px 0 0;font-size:.9rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;row-gap:2px}
.rmeta>*+*::before{content:"·";margin:0 .55em;color:var(--line)}
.rmeta a{font-weight:550}
.rmeta span{color:var(--muted)}
.more{color:var(--faint);font-size:.9rem;margin:14px 0 0}

/* place page */
.phead{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;align-items:center;gap:12px;margin-top:6px}
.phead h1{margin:0}
.rate.big{font-size:.95rem;padding:4px 12px;vertical-align:0}
.pgrid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px;gap:36px;margin-top:26px;align-items:start}
.facts{margin:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.facts div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:120px 1fr;gap:14px;padding:10px 2px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-soft)}
.facts dt{color:var(--faint);font-size:.85rem;letter-spacing:.04em;text-transform:uppercase;padding-top:2px}
.facts dd{margin:0;font-size:.97rem;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
.hrs{list-style:none;margin:0;padding:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}
.hrs li{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:16px;padding:8px 2px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-soft);font-size:.95rem}
.hrs li span:first-child{color:var(--muted)}
.paside{position:sticky;top:20px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:10px}
.btn{display:flex;justify-content:center;align-items:center;gap:8px;background:var(--c);color:#fff;border-radius:10px;padding:12px 16px;font-weight:600;font-size:.98rem}
.btn:hover{text-decoration:none;filter:brightness(1.08)}
.btn.ghost{background:var(--card);color:var(--c);border:1px solid color-mix(in srgb,var(--c) 45%,transparent)}
.btn.ghost:hover{background:color-mix(in srgb,var(--c) 7%,transparent)}
.mini{list-style:none;margin:6px 0 0;padding:0}
.mini li{padding:9px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line-soft)}
.mini a{font-weight:550;color:var(--ink);font-size:.95rem}
.mini a:hover{color:var(--c)}
.mini span{display:block;color:var(--faint);font-size:.83rem}
.paside h2{font-size:1.02rem;margin:14px 0 2px}

/* prose (about / remove) */
.prose{max-width:66ch}
.prose p{margin:0 0 14px}

/* footer */
footer{margin-top:52px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);background:var(--card);padding:22px 0 30px}
.fine{margin:0;color:var(--faint);font-size:.85rem;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:4px 8px;align-items:center}
.fine a{color:var(--muted)}
.fine i{font-style:normal;color:var(--line)}

@media (max-width:860px){
  .pgrid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:8px}
  .paside{position:static;margin-top:22px}
}
@media (max-width:640px){
  .hdr{flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px;padding:12px 16px}
  nav.cats{margin-left:0;width:100%}
  .w{padding:0 16px}
  .hero{padding:26px 0 2px}
  h1{font-size:1.62rem}
  h2{font-size:1.16rem;margin:26px 0 10px}
  .lead{font-size:1rem}
  .stats li{padding:12px 18px 2px 0;margin-right:18px}
  .stats b{font-size:1.4rem}
  .tiles{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:8px}
  .tiles a{padding:11px 13px;font-size:.93rem}
  .facts div{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:2px;padding:9px 2px}
  .row{padding:13px 2px}
}
@media (max-width:400px){
  .tiles{grid-template-columns:1fr}
}
@media print{header,footer,.paside .btn{display:none}}